HOW MUCH PRODUCT ACTUALLY GETS IN TO THE SKIN?

To understand how much product actually gets into your skin, you first have to have a basic understanding of the skin.

       Skin is made up of 3 layers.  The first layer (the one we see) is called the “Epidermis”.  The outermost layer of the Epidermis, called the “Stratum Corneum”, is made up of cells high in keratin, a substance that helps maintain skin hydration by reducing moisture loss.  In effect, keratin contributes to the creation of a semi-waterproof barrier.

     The Stratum Corneum is comprised of flat dry layers of skin cells that overlap much like the scales of a fish.  Besides maintaining hydration, this layer also helps to prevent damage to vital organs from UV rays, pollution, wind and yes, water.  The Stratum Corneum is considered hydrophobic (water fearing).  The pH of the surface of the skin is between 4.5 and 5.5 which means it is slightly “Acid” (or hard).

     Whereas the Stratum Corneum is considered Hydrophobic, the epidermis is actually Hydrophilic (water loving). 

     The middle layer is called the “Dermis”.  This is where the blood vessels of the skin are. 

     The bottom layer is called the “Subcutaneous Tissue”.  This layer is what gives the skin its cushion and form.  It is between the Subcutaneous Tissue and the Dermis where new skin cells are born.  We call this the “Basal Layer”.  The area we are going to focus on is the Basal Layer up to the Stratum Corneum.

     When new skin cells are formed, they resemble plump grapes.  As they slowly make their way up to form the Stratum Corneum (approximately 30 days), they began to loose moisture and flatten out to create the skins armor.

     Since the Stratum Corneum is Hydrophobic, the only way products can penetrate this armor is by prolonged exposure to a watery substance (think about what happens to your fingers when you wash dishes).  Basically what’s happening is, the pH of the skins surface has changed from being in an acid (hard) state of 4.5 to 5.5 to and alkaline (soft) state of 7.0 plus. 

     The best way to achieve the optimum condition for product penetration is to use a water activated cleanser for approximately 2 minutes or longer. Keep in mind that there is a very short window of opportunity to get products to penetrate before the skin becomes acid (hard) again (usually 2-5 minutes), so after rinsing the cleanser off, one needs to quickly pat some of the moisture from the skin and begin applying the product as quickly as possible.  It is actually best if there is a small amount of water still on the skin.

     Another factor to take into consideration when determining if products penetrate is the pH of the product itself and its molecular size.

     Almost all creams have a pH similar to skin (4.5 to 5.5) therefore, once the product comes into contact with the skin, the product will automatically take the skins surface back to its “Normal pH”.  In this case, very little product is able to penetrate.  To determine if a cream has an acid pH, simply look at its color and texture.  If your cream is thick like mayonnaise and white (not clear), chances are the pH is very low. 

     The molecular size of the substance is even more important than its pH.  It is proven that for substances to penetrate the Stratum Corneum layer, its molecular weight has to be 500 Daltons or less.  Almost all face creams are at least 800 Daltons or higher.  This is due to the thickness of the cream.  Clearer more fluid like substances generally have a molecular weight smaller than 500 Daltons, making them easier to penetrate the skins natural barrier.

     Once the substance has penetrated the hydrophobic Stratum Corneum, it is easily absorbed into the hydrophilic Epidermis where it can now do its job.

WHY ARE COSMETIC SO EXPENSIVE?

Are you paying for what you get?  Most consumers don’t realize just how little it actually costs to make cosmetics.  So when you purchase brand name cosmetics, what are you actually paying for?

Ingredients:  Many department store cosmetic companies use expensive ingredients such as crushed pearls and diamonds or exotic ingredients such as rare plants.  The problem is, there is no proof that any of these ingredients have an effect on the skin.  Also, the amount of these ingredients is so minimal that they are almost not measurable.  Most department store cosmetics do not use “Active” ingredients that are proven effective.

The Name:  Lancome, Chanel, Estee Lauder, Dior.  The thing is most of these companies don’t make their own products.  Most products are manufactured by independent laboratories and sold to the cosmetic company.  These laboratories sell to everyone, from the big expensive cosmetic companies to the little hair salon on the corner.  What you may not know is, many big name department store cosmetic companies also have cheaper drug store sister companies (Lancome and L’oreal).  They have the exact same products but packaged under different names.  The only difference is price. 

Advertising:  look at how many ads there are in all the major publications.  A one time full page ad in “People” magazine costs approximately $254,075.00.  That’s “People” magazine.  Magazines like Vogue, Harpers, Glamour and “W” charge far more.  Don’t be fooled by those “Editors Choice” segments in the fashion magazines.  Companies pay to have their product placed there either by committing to advertizing or paying out of pocket for the placement.

Packaging:  Every brand has their own exclusive packaging and you’re paying for that exclusivity.  Cosmetic companies pay big money to packaging manufacturers to make sure their packaging remains “their packaging”.

Shipping:  Raw materials shipped to the lab, Blended products shipped to the filler, Packaged products shipped to the warehouse, then again shipped to the distributor, then again shipped to the store.

Gift With Purchase:  GWP’s are not free.  Those freebies where paid for many times over by your previous purchases (another reason why you’re paying $150.00 for that cream).

Face Models:  It costs the cosmetic company millions of dollars to use a celebrities face to promote their products.  These are not endorsements.  These celebrities are paid big bucks to lend their face to those companies.

Sales People:  You pay for that person behind the counter.  Problem is 90% of the people that work in the cosmetic department have no formal skin care, makeup or hair care education.  They are only trained on the line they represent.  The person who’s selling you that $150.00 face cream might have been selling shoes the week before.

Returns:  The amount of cosmetics that are returned and destroyed every day is astronomical.  Every time you purchase a cosmetic, you are also paying for the millions of products that are returned to the store.  Those returns end up in land fills or end up floating in the middle of the ocean.

"When I developed a men's skin care line (Guy Stuff Skincare), I chose to take the cheapest route possible.  I contacted a laboratory famous for manufacturing natural skincare and told them exactly what I wanted in my line.  They sent me hundreds of samples of stock products to test.  After choosing the products, I looked for the most affordable and easiest packaging to recycle.  When I was through, I had a pretty cool men's line.  The reason I bring this up is, I chose the cheapest way for my to go to create a men's skin care line but it's a rather expensive way as well.  The big cosmetic companies have far larger profit margins to play with than I did.  Yet!  I was able to put a substantial mark-up on the products and still sell them for far less than the department stores sell their products for.  A 4oz Moisture Gel (one of my most popular products) cost me $1.50 for product, packaging and label.  I in turn wholesaled it for $7.00 and it retailed for $14.00.  I used the most expensive method when it comes to cosmetic manufacturing.  A big cosmetic manufacturer would have been able to do the same for less than .25 cents and they would have sold it for $25.00 to $30.00." 
   
Renovar: has gone straight to the laboratories that manufacture products for all of the big cosmetic companies and we are able to purchase products that are the same (or even better) than the major brands.  Only thing is, we demanded that all questionable ingredients be removed.  By doing so, we can sell a serum that would retail for $150.00 at the department store or salon for only $20.00. 

HOW DO PHYSICAL & CHEMICAL SUNSCREENS DIFFER?

Technically a sunscreen is composed of sun filters. These are agents that either block, deflect or reflect UV rays. And, many sunscreens often use a combination of both physical and chemical blockers to achieve optimal results.

Physical filters; include zinc oxide and titanium dioxide such as Mineral Makeup. They work by sitting on top of skin and either reflecting or scattering UV rays. Zinc oxide can block against both UVA and UVB rays, covering the whole spectrum, while titanium dioxide only delivers protection from UVB rays. Both ingredients work well, and in a Mineral Makeup, offer amazingly natural coverage skin.

Chemical filters; include a range of ingredients including avobenzone (also known as Parsol 1789), oxybenzone, Tinosorb M, Tinosorb S, Mexoryl SX and Mexoryl XL amongst others. These agents work by interacting with the skin’s top layer to absorb UV rays and convert them into energy before they can harm skin. Chemical sunscreens tend to use a combination of ingredients to protect against the full spectrum of UV rays. Avobenzone offers UVA blocking capability, but one problem is that it tends to degrade upon exposure to light. In fact, the FDA suggests applying these sunscreens every hour for them to be effective. 

The Problem With Chemical Sunscreens; For decades, irresponsible cosmetic companies and some very vocal, publicity-seeking dermatologists have strongly advocated that chemical sunscreens should be heavily applied before any exposure to sunlight, even on young children. They insisted that such sunscreen use would prevent skin cancer and protect your health. This was despite of a lack of any adequate safety testing of these chemicals.  Over the past decade, many scientists studying cancer have come to virtually the opposite conclusion; that is, the use of sunscreen chemicals may be increasing the incidence of cancer.
It now appears that many heavily-used chemical sunscreens may actually increase cancers by virtue of their free radical generating properties. And more insidiously, many commonly used sunscreen chemicals have strong estrogenic actions that may cause serious problems in sexual development and adult sexual function, and may further increase cancer risks.
It is not that these compounds were ever viewed as benign substances. Organic chemists have been long aware of the dangers of compounds in chemical sunscreens. Such chemicals are widely used to start free radical reactions during chemical synthesis. These chemicals are the dangerous types that one carefully keeps away from your skin while working in a laboratory. To use them, you mix them into a combination of other chemicals then flash the mixture with an ultraviolet light. The ultraviolet absorbing chemicals then generate copious amounts of free radicals that initiated the desired chemical reactions.

So what’s the pay off? If you use chemical sunscreens you won’t get sun burned but if you do you will most likely get skin cancer?

Controversy With Titanium Dioxide; It seems that there are some uninformed individuals that feel that Titanium Dioxide (a common component of Mineral Makeup) is a harmful carcinogen.  But when you delve a bit deeper into this controversy you find that in fact, the only negative side effects of this ingredient were shown in lab rats.  It seems that the rats were forced to inhale massive doses of the dust for six hours per day, five days per week for two years but developed only slight lung tumors. They also noted that the biological relevance of this data to lung tumors in humans is negligible. It is important to note that rats are known to be an extremely sensitive species for developing tumors in the lungs when overloaded with poorly soluble, low toxicity dust particles. Rat lungs process particles very differently compared to larger mammals such as dogs, primates or humans. This sensitivity in the lungs has not been observed in other rodent species such as mice or hamsters, therefore using the rat model to determine carcinogenicity of titanium dioxide in humans can be misleading, as extrapolation of species-specific data to humans is erroneous.

Mineral Makeup As A Sunscreen; I (Todd) have been working with mineral makeup ever since they were available for purchase back in the 80’s.  I’ve worked for and with almost every major mineral cosmetic company on the market.  Although I feel there are “good” and “not so good” mineral makeup’s available, they are still a better alternative for sun protection than their chemical counterpart.  The concept of chemical sunscreens has never made sense to me.  The idea of a chemical turning the suns rays into energy to prevent burning should be a heads up to anyone concerned about introducing chemicals to their bodies.  It’s hard for me to watch parents slather their children with these substances and not say anything.  I have found that a good mineral makeup provides sufficient protection form burning and it only has to be applied once a day.  Unlike chemical sunscreens that must be applied hourly to be effective.  The other plus with mineral makeup is their anti-inflammatory properties making them perfect for people with acne and rosacea.  When looking for a good mineral makeup, be sure to stay away from those containing Bismuth Oxychloride.  You’ll find this ingredient in many cheap and commercial mineral make up’s such as L’oreal, MAC, Bare Escentuals, Laura Mercier, Lancome, Estee Lauder, Glo Minerals, Colorscience, Youngblood, and Pur Minerals, to name a few.  I found that Jane Iredale, Bobbi Brown, and Avon minerals do not contain any Bismuth.  Avon used to but about 1 year ago took it out of their mineral makeup.  Renovar Salon / Beautique will carry two brands of mineral makeup; Bare Faced and Monave.  Both lines are free of Bismuth Oxychloride and Parabens.  We will have the largest selection (62 shades) of foundation available anywhere.

WELCOME TO RENOVAR SALON BEAUTIQUE

RENOVAR!  (Renew, Revive, Refresh)  A dream salon like no other. A full service salon with a huge unique skin care, hair care, body care and makeup retail area.

We are still in the early stages of making the RENOVAR dream a reality.  But with a little support (and few donations and grants) we hope to have the doors of RENOVAR open within 6 months.  This blog was started to (hopefully) create enough interest in our salon concept, educate consumers on products and send out a warning about the dangers that lurk in conventional salons.  We will have regular posts regarding many different subjects from “Why Department Store Cosmetics Cost So Much” to “What’s The Difference Between Serums And Creams”. 

We know this is unheard of but we hope that by the time we open our doors, people will understand why we chose to do this.  We are aware we're not going to get rich monetarily, but we know we will be rich in other ways. 

Unlike most salons, RENOVAR is a non-profit full service beauty retreat for everyone.  Especially those people that due to the toxic chemicals used in most salons cannot partake in the salon experience. 

RENOVAR is unique in that, each month the profits from salon services and retail sales will be donated to various local charities which will be nominated by our customers. RENOVAR is dedicated to leaving the smallest carbon footprint possible.  We will do this by repurposing furniture and displays, minimizing (or eliminating) disposables, using only safe 100% biodegradable products,  eliminating all aerosols, recycling all packaging, using only environmentally safe cleaning products, illuminating with energy efficient lamps, minimizing unnecessary electrical appliances, and utilize recycled paper whenever possible.  We will also work hand in hand with local shelters to develop free “esteem programs” for women entering the work force.      

RENOVAR is the dream child of 2 veteran beauty professionals.  With over 65 combined years of experience, we bring a wealth of knowledge to our clients.  Todd has a 35 year background in medical esthetics, developing cosmetics, cosmetic education, film, television and print makeup artistry, and also salon management.  Susanna has over 30 years experience in cosmetics retail management, and wedding, special event makeup artistry.

It was because of our vast knowledge of the beauty industry that we decided there needed to be a place where consumers can discover the truth about cosmetics. What works and what doesn’t.  What’s safe and what’s not. Why consumers pay so much for cosmetics.  We were tired of seeing the ridiculous markups on cosmetics, so we went directly to the source to see if we could purchase the products. With our connections we were able to get the same products that are sold to the big cosmetic companies, but in bulk (Which will save our customers hundreds of dollars).  Not only were we able to find the same products, but in many cases, we were able to acquire better products because they are free of fillers, synthetic perfumes and otherwise unhealthy ingredients (namely Parabens).  We also only carry and use products that are 100% cruelty free.  Even our makeup brushes are free of animal hair!

Since we purchase in bulk, you can purchase as much or as little as you want.  We have various environmentally safe jars and bottles so you can purchase our skin care, hair care, body care, and makeup in the size you want.  And if you return your empty container to us for recycling, you can receive a discount on your next purchase. 

Not only are the products that we carry the safest and most effective available, our salon services are too!  Plus, just like our retail products, our salon services are more affordable than that of salons of this caliper.

RENOVAR uses only the safest hair color, lighteners, perms, and relaxers.  We do not use products that contain ammonia, thioglycolates, lye, or any other harmful ingredients. All of our hair services are so safe, pregnant women, persons going through chemotherapy and even children can take advantage of every service.

RENOVAR provides safe, relaxing old fashion spa manicures and pedicures.  We do not use harmful and toxic acrylic.  We specialize in natural silk wraps, nail buffing and carcinogenic free nail polishes.  Even the polish remover we use is acetone free.

RENOVAR takes the fluff out of facials by offering facial treatments that actually deliver results.  We have eliminated the segment of facials that are “for show” and focus on anti-aging and acne treatments that actually work such as peels, light therapy, oxygen therapy, and hydrophilic (water loving) therapy.  All products used are safe, effective and free of fillers and unnecessary ingredients.

RENOVAR also offers the finest professional makeup service available.  If you are a Bride to be or attending a special function or just wanting a makeup lesson, we have exactly what you are looking for at a fraction of the cost of other salons.  Our artists have many years of experience in wedding, special event, film, television and editorial makeup application.  All of our makeup is so safe in many cases it’s actually good for your skin.

RENOVAR is not a discount retail salon.  We just feel that you shouldn’t have to spend all of your hard earned money to experience luxury.  Most salons charge high prices because they have to.  They purchase the most expensive (not the best) products and pay outrageous rent.  They are also in the business to get rich.  We are in the business to make people feel good and look their best and to feel good about what we do.     

While creating beauty, salons and department store cosmetic departments are one of the unhealthiest environments to be in.  Walk in to any salon or cosmetic department and the first thing you are hit with is a cloud of hazardous fumes.  These are caused by alcohol and synthetic fragrances in perfumes, propellants in aerosol hairspray and toxic acrylics used in nail services.  It is no wonder why cancers of all kinds run rampant in the beauty industry.  At RENOVAR we will do everything in our power to remove all unhealthy substances from the salon environment.