SKIN CARE INGREDIENTS THAT WORK

People have asked us to provide a list of ingredients to look for when they are purchasing skin care.  We compiled a list of the ingredients we feel actually benefit the skin.  Keep in mind that just because the ingredient is in a product, it doesn’t mean it’s the best on the market.  The concentration of the ingredient is very important.  Many companies add these ingredients to their product but the concentrations are so low they become useless.  If you see an ingredient you are interested in listed on a skin care product ask the salesperson if they know what the concentration of that ingredient is.  You can also look on the list of ingredients.  If the ingredient in question is listed in the second half of the list, chances are the concentrations are too low.     

Aloe Vera:  A cactus-like plant growing in the warmer climates of the world and are described as succulents. Aloe Vera is a very popular herbal remedy. The Aloe Vera plant (also called Aloe Barbadensis) is unique among plants for its importance in natural skin care.  Aloe Vera contains burn healing effects, anti-inflammatory properties, scar reducing and wound repairing properties.

Alpha Arbutin:  From the North American Forests, Alpha-Arbutin, and extract of the Bearberry Plant, is a natural skin whitening agent. Substantially more stable and effective than any other skin whitening product available in the market today. A tyrosinase inhibitor, Alpha-Arbutin can be up to 10 times more effective without the negative side effects typically found in other skin lightening agents.  Reduces and prevents hyper-pigmentation, fades unsightly discoloration while brightening skin tone and blocks and inhibits tyrosinase (melanin production in skin) activity.

Alpha Lipoic Acid:  Lipoic Acid is a well-known natural substance found in certain foods and also produced in the human body. It has an impressive array of potentially beneficial mechanisms of action. Lipoic Acid is a potent and versatile antioxidant. It is a co-factor in a key biochemical pathway responsible for energy production in the cells (citric acid cycle). It inhibits cross-linking which is the formation of chemical bridges between proteins or other large molecules. Cross-linking contributed to the aging process by causing hardening of arteries, wrinkling of the skin and stiffening of joints. It has moderate anti-inflammatory effect.  Finally, it has a capacity, albeit a modest one, to neutralize and remove from the body a variety of toxic metals.

Borage Oil:  Borage, also known as starflower, has been used as a medicinal and culinary plant for centuries in Europe, Asia and North Africa.  The moisturizing fatty acids help to improve skin quality and texture and keep it young and supple-looking. Borage also helps reduce and prevent redness and skin inflammation.  Borage is widely used in the treatment of eczema and psoriasis. 

DMAE:  DMAE is naturally found in some foods. It is a highly bioactive nutritional precursor to acetylcholine, a key neurotransmitter. DMAE has a firming effect on facial and neck tissue. and helps diminish fine lines around the eyes and mouth. DMAE also boosts other antioxidants, resulting in increased brightness, smoothness, and wrinkle reduction. DMAE also acts as a membrane stabilizer, and can even help erase and prevent age and liver spots.

Evening Primrose:  Evening Primrose is a wildflower that grows throughout the U.S. Although Native Americans used the seeds for food and made poultices from the whole plant to heal bruises, evening primrose oil (EPO) has only recently been used as medicine.  A study of 1,207 patients found that EPO helped relieve symptoms from skin conditions, including itching, crusting, edema (fluid, swelling), and redness.

Glycolic Acids:  Due to its excellent capability to penetrate skin, glycolic acid finds applications in skin care products, most often as a chemical peel performed by a dermatologist, plastic surgeon or licensed aesthetician in concentrations of 20 to 70% or at-home kits in lower concentrations between 10 and 20%. In addition to concentration, pH also plays a large part in determining the potency of glycolic acid in solution. Physician-strength peels can have a pH as low as 0.6 (strong enough to completely keratolyze the epidermis), while acidities for home peels can be as high as 2.5. Glycolic acid is used to improve the skin's appearance and texture. It reduces wrinkles, acne scarring, hyperpigmentation and improves many other skin conditions, including actinic keratosis, hyperkeratosis, and seborrheic keratosis. Once applied, glycolic acid reacts with the upper layer of the epidermis, weakening the binding properties of the lipids that hold the dead skin cells together. This allows the stratum corneum to be exfoliated, exposing live skin cells. Highly purified grades of glycolic acid are commercially available for personal care applications.

Green Tea: Of all the antioxidants known to mankind, the components of green tea are the most potent.  Antioxidants are those agents which can counteract the effects of oxidant radicals. Oxidant radicals -- or free radicals, as they are commonly called -- are byproducts of the body that can cause damage to cells and tissues. Antioxidants bind to the free radicals, deactivating them before they can cause harm.

Hyaluronic Acid:  Hyaluronic acid is a substance that is naturally present in the human body. It is found in the highest concentrations in fluids in the eyes and joints. Hyaluronic Acid can be applied to the skin for healing wounds, burns, skin ulcers, and as a moisturizer.  It helps to keep skin smooth and "plump" through its ability to hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water.

Idebenone:  Idebenone is an extraordinary antioxidant, first recognized in the medical field for its protective, restorative and corrective capabilities. Idebenone has been proven as the only topical antioxidant that can act on all three levels of free radical assaults, working deep within the surface layers of the skin to restore skin cells. It helps prevent further damage and supports skin’s natural repair mechanisms to help address past damage, and provides the most effective and highest level of antioxidant protection available.

Lavender:  Native to southern France and the Canary Islands, Lavender is a member of the mint family (Lamiaceae), with its silvery foliage and tall purple flowers.  Throughout history, lavender had been prized for its impressive healing properties. It was used by the ancient Romans for its healing and antiseptic properties.  Lavender works well in the treatment of acne, eczema, dermatitis, fungus, burns and wounds.

Lemon:  Part of the citrus family, Lemon has the ability to reduce oil production, clear acne inflammation and breakouts, tone and purify the skin, and reduce acne scaring.

MSM:  The raw materials used to synthesize MSM have many sources, including plants or other organically-based material.  MSM is a safe and effective anti-inflammatory agent.  MSM has been shown to inhibit the development of abnormal antibodies to collagen.  Reports suggest that MSM improves the suppleness of skin.

Niacinamide:  Niacinamide is one of the two principal forms of vitamin B3.  Plays a key role in the metabolism of glucose, cellular energy production and synthesis of lipids.  Topical Niacinamide appears to reverse the decline of co-enzymes present in the skin. Niacinamide also appears to have some antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Furthermore, Niacinamide is stable, safe and well tolerated in topical formulations even at relatively high concentrations.

Peptides:  Peptides are among the most powerful and interesting skin care ingredients being used in successful anti wrinkle products.  Peptides are short chains of amino acids. Amino acids are the basic building blocks of proteins and many other different types of organic molecules. Peptides are frequently created by the digestion of proteins in the body, and many types of peptides are readily and rapidly absorbed by the bloodstream. For this reason, peptides are particularly effective as skin care ingredients.  Peptides work to relax certain types of facial wrinkles, increase overall collagen production, protect the skin from damage, and heal wounds.

Retinol:  Retinol is the whole Vitamin A molecule, which can be broken down into thousands of smaller components, including “retinoic acid” (also called Tretinoin).  An important role in anti-aging skin care. The purest and most active form of Vitamin A, Retinol aids in the resurfacing and rejuvenating of skin, helping to impart a clearer, more vibrant complexion.  Retinol penetrates deep into the skin, where it becomes fully operative. Wrinkles and lines are gradually smoothed, moisture and elasticity increase, the complexion glows and damage is diminished.  A beneficial cell-communicating ingredient, as well as an antioxidant. It assists in creating stronger, healthier skin cells and increases the amount of skin-support substances.  Used in the management of acne in topical applications. The increased skin exfoliation of Vitamin A helps unclog pores. Retinol has also been shown to stimulate new collagen production, which is critical in the battle against aging.

Rosehip Oil:  Rosehip Oil educes wrinkles and signs of premature ageing. Helps to counter the drying effects of the sun which are usually first noticed in fine wrinkle lines or "crows feet" around the eyes and mouth. Evens tone and smoothes roughness.  Improves surgical and accidental scars, restores normal skin color (reduces redness or hyper pigmentation). It also avoids the formation of the keloid type of scar (lump) which may appear after surgical procedures and helps to make less apparent old scars left by acne or chickenpox.

Tea Tree:  From the Melaleuca tree in Australia, Tea Tree has been used for centuries as an anti-bacterial, anti-fungal and antiseptic solution which makes it the perfect treatment for acne. 

Vitamin C:  Vitamin C derived from citrus, is used to protect the skin against the sun, pollutants, and other environmental hazards. Vitamin C applied to the skin can help with damage from radiation therapy.  Used for infections including gum disease, acne and other skin infections. Commonly used as an Antioxidant to prevent free radical skin cell damage.  Vitamin C can be used to brighten and even out skin tone.

Vitamin E:  Vitamin E benefits are numerous. In fact, skin care products that contain Vitamin E have become an essential part of healthy skin care.  Because of its antioxidant activity, Vitamin E is vital in protecting skin cells from ultra violet light, pollution, drugs, and other elements that produce cell damaging free radicals. Used in skin care products to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, reduce inflammation, care for burned skin, reduce erythema and prevent forms of skin cancer.

MYTHS AND FACTS ABOUT PROFESSIONAL, SALON AND COMMERCIAL COSMETICS

Myth: If products are at a Salon by a professional and licensed cosmetologist, they must be safe.

Fact: The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has no authority to require companies to assess ingredients or products for safety. FDA does not review or approve the vast majority of salon products or ingredients before they go on the market. The agency conducts pre-market reviews only for certain color additives and active ingredients in cosmetics classified as over-the-counter drugs.

An example of a product that is for professional use only and not safe is “Brazilian Blowout” thermal hair straightener.  Although the ingredient is not listed on the product, it contains toxic Formaldehyde.   

Myth: The salon and cosmetics industry effectively polices itself, making sure all ingredients meet a strict standard of safety.

Fact: There is no industry recognized national safety panel for Salon products in the United States. In its more than 30-year history, the industry’s safety panel (the Cosmetic Ingredient Review, or CIR) has assessed fewer than 20 percent of cosmetics ingredients and found only a handful of ingredients or chemical groups to be unsafe. Its recommendations are not binding on companies.

Myth: The government prohibits dangerous chemicals in professional salon products, and companies wouldn’t risk using them.

Fact: Cosmetics companies may use any ingredient or raw material, except for color additives and a few prohibited substances (such as vinyl chloride and cow parts), without government review or approval.

• More than 500 products sold in the U.S. contain ingredients banned in cosmetics in Japan, Canada or the European Union.
• Nearly 100 products contain ingredients considered unsafe by the International Fragrance Association.
• A wide range of nanomaterials whose safety is in question may be common in personal care products.
• 22% of all personal care products may be contaminated with the cancer-causing impurity 1,4-dioxane, including many children’s products.
• 60% of sunscreens contain the potential hormone disruptor oxybenzone that readily penetrates the skin and contaminates the bodies of 97% of Americans.
• 61% of tested lipstick brands contain residues of lead.

Myth: Salon ingredients are applied to the scalp and rarely get into the body. When they do, levels are too low to matter.

Fact: People are exposed by breathing in fumes and absorbing chemicals into pores. Biomonitoring studies have found cosmetics ingredients – like formaldehydes, phthalate plasticizers, paraben preservatives, the pesticide triclosan, synthetic musk’s, and sunscreens – inside the bodily fluids of men, women, children and even the cord blood of newborn babies. Many of these chemicals are potential hormone disruptors that may increase cancer risk. Products commonly contain penetration enhancers to drive ingredients deeper into the hair. Studies find health problems in people exposed to common fragrance and sunscreen ingredients, including elevated risk for sperm damage, feminization of the male reproductive system, and low birth weight in girls.

Myth: The FDA would promptly recall any product that injures people.

Fact: The FDA has no authority to require recalls of harmful salon or commercial products or cosmetics. Furthermore, manufacturers are not required to report cosmetics-related injuries to the agency. The FDA relies on companies to report injuries voluntarily.

Myth: Consumers can read ingredient labels and avoid products with hazardous chemicals.

Fact: Federal law allows companies to leave many chemicals off labels, including nanomaterials, contaminants, and components of fragrance. Professional salon products and Fragrance Companies are not required to list ingredients by any Federal law in the United States. For those few that do list their ingredients, tests have revealed an average of 14 hidden compounds per formulation, including potential hormone disruptors and diethyl phthalate, a compound linked to sperm damage.

Myth:  Products that state that they are made in particular country must be made in that country.

Fact:  There is no Government entity that regulates these statements.  Any manufacturer can (and often do) state that their product is “Made in (for example) Paris” when in fact, the products are made in the USA, China or some other country.  These statements may be considered false advertizing but there is no one to prevent this from happening.  It is assumed that companies such as Lancome, Chanel and Dior (that label their products “Made in France” or “Made in Paris”) are all made in France, but in reality, many of their products are manufactured in the USA and China.   The same goes for products that claim they are made in the USA (Estee Lauder Companies, Bare Escentuals).  Many of those products are actually made in China.

Myth:  The FDA makes sure cosmetic company’s stand by their product claims.

Fact:  The FDA (or any Government entity for that matter) has no authority to require companies to prove that their product will do what they say it will do.  Many companies make claims that their product will reduce wrinkles or take wrinkles away when in fact they can’t and don’t.  Companies can (and often do) say what ever they want about their product without repercussion.  Commercial (Department and Drug Store) cosmetic companies develop products based on marketing ploys and not on the products efficacy.

Myth:  A $250.00 cream or serum is better than a $10.00 cream or serum.

Fact:  Expensive creams cost as much as they do because cosmetic companies play on the consumer’s ignorance (Other factors are advertising, celebrity face models, packaging, gift with purchases and returns). They are banking on the prospect that there are people out there that believe this myth.  Many cosmetic companies have built their empires because consumers continue to buy these overpriced products.  A prime example is the “La Mer” company (owned by Estee Lauder).  Their original cream sold for up to $500.00 per jar.  Consumers thought that if these companies were going to charge that kind of money for the cream, it had to be great.  Actually, this product has absolutely no active ingredients and is no more effective than most cheap drug store face creams.  La Mer developed an entire line of skin care, body care and makeup products due to the creams popularity.  All of the items in the line are far more expensive than most cosmetic company product lines yet no more effective.  In fact products such as Avon skin care, which sells for 200% less, is more effective than any La Mer skin care product.

Myth:  The FDA tests cosmetics for lead and other hazardous ingredients.

Fact:  The FDA does not test cosmetics for any ingredient, be it safe or hazardous.  The FDA relies on companies to list all cosmetic ingredients voluntarily.  Many companies do not list lead in their ingredients.  

In 2007, a report was released by the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics (CSC) that presented an analysis of lead in lipstick products. The CSC report stated that more than half of 33 brand-name lipsticks tested contained detectable levels of lead, with levels ranging from 0.03 to 0.65 parts per million (ppm). The CSC report noted none of these lipsticks listed lead as an ingredient.

Recently there have been a number of cases of inflammation on lips due to excessive use of lipsticks. The symptoms of lipstick poisoning varies from person to person. The lipstick poisoning can be classified into two different categories, allergic reactions and chronic lip eruptions. Chronic lip eruptions some times lead to skin cancer. The allergic reactions are due to the presence of certain ingredients used in the manufacture of lipsticks. It can be the color, preservative, lead or any other material present in the lipstick. Usually, these reactions will disappear upon the discontinuation of the lipstick.  It was found that the presence of Lead in the lipsticks is the major cause for the reactions. Almost all major brands of lipsticks contain Lead in considerable quantity. The lead is mixed with saliva and reaches the stomach even after 6 hours of application. In 1990s, reports of analytical results from a commercial testing laboratory suggested that traces of lead in lipstick might be of concern.

                                                                          Lead Poisoning

In a 2007 study, the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics found that some brands of cosmetics had consistently higher lead levels compared to other companies. The worst offender in the CSC study was L’Oreal, which made some of the top highest lead-containing brands. Lancome, L’Oreal, Cover Girl and Maybelline.

Myth:  Skin-care products are all hype; soap and water works just as well.

Fact:  The science behind skin-care products has grown in leaps and bounds over the past 20 years. Today, there is good scientific evidence behind the use of such ingredients as hyaluronic acid, alpha arbutin, peptides, antioxidant vitamins, green tea polyphenols, retinoids, alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids, and essential oils in skin-care products to minimize wrinkles, fade dark spots, and strengthen collagen.

Myth:  Natural cosmetic ingredients do not work as well as synthetic chemical ingredients.

Fact:  Fruits, vegetables, or any pure food ingredients are not necessarily the best for skin. When it comes to skin care, more often than not, it is some small element of the plant that provides the benefit for skin. Extracting this component from the plant almost always requires a chemical process. Further, these extracts are far more stable than the whole food. Think about it this way: a plant in its pure form isn't stable in the least, especially in skin-care products. Even a sour lemon will grow mold in the refrigerator and imagine what would happen to the lemon over time if was sitting on your bathroom counter!

A slice of apple does little or nothing to benefit the skin however an element of the fermented apple (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) will promote skin cell proliferation by exfoliating dead surface skin cells.  Another example is the Bearberry.  In its raw state, it has no known skin benefits but an element of the Bearberry called Alpha Arbutin has been proven to eliminate dark spots in the skin even more effectively than Hydroquinone which is a synthetic ingredient.